Lanai Table (#2)
I built this table from redwood and used Australian Timber Oil by Cabot for the finish. I was using spare wood leftover from a privacy fence project, so I tried to do some interesting joints and resawing on my table saw which didn't quite work out perfectly but I was able to fix with a hand plane. I used a "castle joint" for the top box stretchers that hold the tabletop, but the wood dimensions that I used for this table were the minimum that I could manage in order to save wood, so the joints had some breakage issues, which I learned can be helped with a rounded inner corner. In the end, this didn't affect the strength or function of the table, and it looks nice. I glued up a few long boards for the table top and used a lap joint and 45 degree miter for the bottom box stretchers, which had a better fit than the castle joints using this thin of wood. The whole thing is only glued, except the top being attached to the frame with some metal 90 degree brackets and screws and some nails for the 3D printed water standoff feet on the bottom. The lower shelf is a bunch of boards that I spaced and glued by hand and then clamped with a few long boards and clamps. In the future, I would probably use a brad nailer to put some of this together to speed up the process, since the clamping was difficult while keeping the board spacing. This whole table was built to see what I could get away with when building furniture, as it has the thinnest boards I felt would be sufficient to keep this table together plus just using glue alone for the joinery. It is pretty solid, so I think I could use even thinner boards next time, to see where the limit is for a light table.
Castle joints for the top box stretchers
Lap joints with miters for the bottom box stretchers
Overall View
3D printed protective feet (water standoffs)
